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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 16, 2010

biggie86205 wrote:

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

biggie86205 wrote:

Good write-up! Ive done all that, except the first one. I would be cautious using the 40gig power supply. The 60gig needs more juice than a 40, hence why it has a different power supply.

 

I definitely recommend upgrading to a 19 blade fan and better thermal paste!


I would disagree. According the the 60GB PS3 manual, power the system consumes maximum of 380 Watts, which is a little less than what the ZSSR5391 & the APS-226 can supply (12V X 32A = 384W). However according to edepot (a little lower on the page), a 60GB PS3 averages only 205W when doing its most demanding application (playing a game). The APS-231 supplies (12V X 23.5A = 282W), much more than enough to do the job.

 

I would also like to add that the ZSSR5391/APS-226/APS-231 power supplies have exactly the same screw mounting positions and the same number of pins (5) supplying the output power. If the APS-231 power supply wasn't "backwards compatible" with the 20/60/80GB models, I believe Sony would have altered the screw mounting positions and make the the number of output pins different, to avoid incompatibility complications.

 

Besides I have been testing this out myself for the last two weeks, and it works great


Yeah after reading the link posted above it looks like it will work. My mistake. Ill have to grab one off ebay! You said these are the 40gb power supplies? They are the black plastic ones correct?

 


Only the bottom of the APS-231 is black plastic, the rest is metal, but not the shiny metal like the ZSSR5391/APS-226, it has a matte finish. I posted links to what each power supply looks like in my original post...

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 16, 2010
Good thread!
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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 16, 2010

JEDEDIAHP wrote:

Ive got a very simple tip that actually helps alot, I did it with my xbox 360, and now my PS3 and it did make a difference, you know the little rubber pads on the bottom of the console? Well...  super glue bigger plastic, rubber or whatever kind of "legs" ill call em, onto the bottom of the console so that it sits higher of the shelf, Ive notciced that the bottom of the PS3 gets hotter than anywhere else because it sits almost flat on the surface it is sitting on, if you can raise it a bit I have noticed a considerable difference in how hot the bottem gets. In my case I just took the "legs" of the bottom of an old shelf stereo I had and glued them on, so now there is about a 1 to 2 inch gap underneath the console that air can flow freely under. I know this sounds stupid when talking about changing the power supply or fan, but for those who dont want to crack into their PS3 this is a small difference that actually does make a difference.


The bottom of the PS3 gets so hot because that is where the heatsink is next to. If it the heatsink is operating optimally, it should be drawing away most of the heat generated by the CPU/GPU, motherboard, and power supply.

 

I would think you would get the same (or better) result if you stood the PS3 vertically, since the "bottom" is getting a lot of air flow around it.

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

MOBSTER118 wrote:
nice guide but paying 30$ xtra and opening the ps3 is risky for those who dont no much about inside and dont no how to use a thermal paste

I agree, and I believe I addressed that fact in the second paragraph. One needs to be very careful when opening up the PS3 for the first time, that is why I stress studying that video and illustrated guide I referenced, before doing so. If one were to just replace the power supply, that would be the least invasive approach, and the risk is minimal...

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

The new 2100A PS3 Slim (45nm CELL/40nm RSX) has been released. It is at  Frys electronics stores now, and should be everywhere else soon.

Thanks for the tip.  Do you know how to confirm (before buying), whether or not a PS3 is the CECH-2100A
 model?  Does it say the model number on the box?

 

 

 

 

 

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

If you want to try to fix your 60GB PS3 in the best possible manner you should consider having it professionally reballed. It is a much longer lasting repair than having it reflowed.  Knights Gaming Repair does it for $200, this place does it for $90, this guy on eBay does it for $70 (when he offers it)., and apparently gophermods will offer reballing within the next 6 months.

 

I cannot vouch for any of these places, but a successful reballing will be a longer lasting repair and those tips should help it stay that way...


 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I checked out that listing on Ebay you posted a link to, and found out its from a 2-man company called Capital Circuits. I spoke with Adam and sure enough, he says they will reball a PS3 for just $75 (including return shipping).  Which is a great price, but I'm not crazy about shipping my PS3, and waiting a couple weeks to get it back.

 

So I did some searching for some local companies that reball PS3, and seems I may have found some great options.

 

I went ahead and updated my thread with the details:My first time dealing with YLOD 

Sony's PlayStation Home updated mission statement...


"Like it never happened"


- Stand for something better than mediocrity and don't disguise it as adequate, when clearly it is far from that to anyone willing to be objective and unbiased. -

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

D-Nitrate wrote:

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

The new 2100A PS3 Slim (45nm CELL/40nm RSX) has been released. It is at  Frys electronics stores now, and should be everywhere else soon.

Thanks for the tip.  Do you know how to confirm (before buying), whether or not a PS3 is the CECH-2100A
 model?  Does it say the model number on the box?

 

 

 

 

 

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

If you want to try to fix your 60GB PS3 in the best possible manner you should consider having it professionally reballed. It is a much longer lasting repair than having it reflowed.  Knights Gaming Repair does it for $200, this place does it for $90, this guy on eBay does it for $70 (when he offers it)., and apparently gophermods will offer reballing within the next 6 months.

 

I cannot vouch for any of these places, but a successful reballing will be a longer lasting repair and those tips should help it stay that way...


 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I checked out that listing on Ebay you posted a link to, and found out its from a 2-man company called Capital Circuits. I spoke with Adam and sure enough, he says they will reball a PS3 for just $75 (including return shipping).  Which is a great price, but I'm not crazy about shipping my PS3, and waiting a couple weeks to get it back.

 

So I did some searching for some local companies that reball PS3, and seems I may have found some great options.

 

I went ahead and updated my thread with the details:My first time dealing with YLOD 


$75 is a heck of alot better than $200 KGR charges, I'm glad there are more choices out there. Thanks for the update, and good luck!

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

Logical_Dolphin wrote:
 
Also the APS-231 power supply consumes less power than either of the original power supplies (with a savings of at least 100W), so your electricity bill should be lower plus you will be helping out the environment. LOL :smileytongue:

How do you save 100 W by merely changing power supplies? Do you simply mean the newer power supply has a lower maximum output?

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

potatobreath wrote:

Logical_Dolphin wrote:
 
Also the APS-231 power supply consumes less power than either of the original power supplies (with a savings of at least 100W), so your electricity bill should be lower plus you will be helping out the environment. LOL :smileytongue:

How do you save 100 W by merely changing power supplies? Do you simply mean the newer power supply has a lower maximum output?


power supplies use more power than is necessary unless the power supply is "80+" certified. so the newer power supply APS-231 creates less total power than before by 100 watts than older power supply models so by defauly uses less power as less power is created.

playing socom confrontation since the beta.
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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

Your explanation doesn't make much sense unless you're telling me the newer power supply is simply much more efficient, welcomehomey. The components in the PS3 are still drawing the same amount of juice from the power supply. How do you account for 100 W of heat though?

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Re: 3 tips for a Greener and Cooler-Running Backwards Compatible PS3 system

May 17, 2010

potatobreath wrote:

Your explanation doesn't make much sense unless you're telling me the newer power supply is simply much more efficient, welcomehomey. The components in the PS3 are still drawing the same amount of juice from the power supply. How do you account for 100 W of heat though?


Yes the BC PS3s draw the same amount of power, the issue here is how much power the PSUs supply.

 

The original PSU supply 384W,  the APS-231 supply 282W. Apparently the BC PS3s only draw 205W max. I believe that most of that unneeded power is dissipated as heat. So with those power supplies you have at least 179W of unneeded power with the original PSU, and at least 77W of unneeded power with the APS-231...

 

 

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