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Wastelander
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 24, 2010

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

 

"According the the 60GB PS3 manual, power the system consumes maximum of 380 Watts, which is a little less than what the ZSSR5391 & the APS-226 can supply (12V X 32A = 384W). However according to edepot (a little lower on the page), a 60GB PS3 averages only 205W when doing its most demanding application (playing a game). The APS-231 supplies (12V X 23.5A = 282W), much more than enough to do the job.

 


i have a launch 60GB model (upgraded 500GB last year) it's been run almost 24x7 since i got it (especially since Folding@home).

i haven't had any issues (knocks on wood). i've got a fair amount of space around it for air circulation and i use compressed air to clean out dust when it accumulates in the vents.

 

the machine DOES run pretty hot, but the fan only has to kick into high gear when i'm playing an intesive game or if the temperature in the house gets above 25C.

 

i'm a little worried about switching the power supply. the 60GB units have 4 USB slots and extra memory card readers. could that extra hardware account for power use above the average of 205W? USB ports are powered. what if i was charging 4 controllers at once or had some other power-hungry USB devices connected? what happens if the power draw is more than the 40GB PSU can provide. the 40GB only had 2 USB ports and no card readers.

 

(edited for spelling/grammar)

 

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PIayStation MVP
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 24, 2010

LXicon wrote:

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

 

"According the the 60GB PS3 manual, power the system consumes maximum of 380 Watts, which is a little less than what the ZSSR5391 & the APS-226 can supply (12V X 32A = 384W). However according to edepot (a little lower on the page), a 60GB PS3 averages only 205W when doing its most demanding application (playing a game). The APS-231 supplies (12V X 23.5A = 282W), much more than enough to do the job.

 


i have a launch 60GB model (upgraded 500GB last year) it's been run almost 24x7 since i got it (especially since Folding@home).

i haven't had any issues (knocks on wood). i've got a fair amount of space around it for air circulation and i use compressed air to clean out dust when it accumulates in the vents.

 

the machine DOES run pretty hot, but the fan only has to kick into high gear when i'm playing an intesive game or if the temperature in the house gets above 25C.

 

i'm a little worried about switching the power supply. the 60GB units have 4 USB slots and extra memory card readers. could that extra hardware account for power use above the average of 205W? USB ports are powered. what if i was charging 4 controllers at once or had some other power-hungry USB devices connected? what happens if the power draw is more than the 40GB PSU can provide. the 40GB only had 2 USB ports and no card readers.

 

(edited for spelling/grammar)

 


Like I said before even with the APS-231, you are getting supplied at least 77W more than what the 60GB PS3 needs to operate. I don't know what the PS3's USB requirements are, but I am sure it is similar to my Belkin powered USB hub. It's requirements is (5V X 2.5A) 12.5W, which is IMO well under the power surplus the APS-231 supplies.

 

I have charged at least three things at once in my 60GB PS3 with the APS-231 power supply (2 DS3 controllers, PS3 wireless keypad), without any problems...

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Lombax Warrior
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 24, 2010

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

 
Personally I went with the IC Diamond 7 thermal compound. It is comprised of 92% micronized diamonds. Diamond is one of the best thermal compounds out there, and supposedly has 5 times better thermal conductivity as silver. It costs about the same as AS5.

  

 


How did you apply the thermal compound? (dot, rice, pea, or smooth) I'm going to use the same this weekend, just would like some pointers. Thanks for the help

 

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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 24, 2010

Untraceable79 wrote:

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

 
Personally I went with the IC Diamond 7 thermal compound. It is comprised of 92% micronized diamonds. Diamond is one of the best thermal compounds out there, and supposedly has 5 times better thermal conductivity as silver. It costs about the same as AS5.

  

 


How did you apply the thermal compound? (dot, rice, pea, or smooth) I'm going to use the same this weekend, just would like some pointers. Thanks for the help

 


IC7 has the consistancy of taffy. You can't easily spread it smoothly, and are likely to form air pockets if you do. What I did was to put a pea sized ammount (8mm in diameter) on both the RSX and CELL processor. The instructions call for 5.0-5.5mm amount, but since the CELL & RSX processors are larger than the typical PC CPU I used a larger amount. Since the compound is non-conductive there won't be an issue if some spills on the motherboard.

 

http://innovationcooling.com/applicationinstructions.htm

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Lombax Warrior
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 24, 2010

Thanks for the info. I will let you know how it turns out.

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Wastelander
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 25, 2010

Any reliable online sources to get IC Diamond 7? You just put a pea sized drop (didn't spread it in anyway) and then dropped the fan ontop of it and allowed the pressure of the fan being screwed back down to spread the grease? I think I'd rather use IC Diamond just in case I have bad luck and some of it spreads onto the motherboard... eh?

 

 

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Lombax Warrior
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 25, 2010

This thread is doing great.  Remember the key points everyone.

-Replace the thermal paste. IC7 is amazing. Use it per the instructions.   

 

-Give the PS3 plenty of air space. All around. For added peace of mind. Mine sits about two inches above my desk.

 

-Stay away from the the 3rd party air coolers. If anything, find a cheap battery powered hand held party fan. Just enough to direct a breeze towards the front.   

 

-Replacing the PSU with a 40G is peace of mind. The 40G PSU has plenty of power to keep a 60G happy. I left mine on for 30 hours so the 320G HDD could get fully reformatted.

 

-Keep it clean. Vacuum it once in a while. My launch 60G was opened for the first time back in May and all I found was one dust worm. 1/2 long. It has only been vacuumed twice since launch. 

 

-My next project is to use some thin washers to raise the PSU slightly above its mounts. This will allow air to travel between the PSU and the upper heat sink plate. It is possible to do the same with the blu ray player, but if the opening of the player and the front case are off. You could damage the disc or even the player.  

 

May the 60Gs live forever.

 

  

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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 26, 2010

I purchased my IC7 from Micro Center, I happened to have one in the area. It is also available on eBay.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0282371

Yes, I used a pea sized amount and used the pressure of screwing back the heatsink to evenly spread the compound...

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Monster Hunter
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 27, 2010

My PS3 doesn't get hot at all, but the fan gets loud. I have an 80GB CECHL01 model, would you recommend replacing the fan with a 19-blade fan?

 

I was also thinking about buying 3 (powered) USB Fans and placing one on the right and two on the front.

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Wastelander
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Re: 3 tips for a Cooler-Running and Greener PS3 system (Models CECHA01-CECHG01)

Jun 27, 2010

 


Logical_Dolphin wrote:

I purchased my IC7 from Micro Center, I happened to have one in the area. It is also available on eBay.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0282371

Yes, I used a pea sized amount and used the pressure of screwing back the heatsink to evenly spread the compound...


Okay, I've got mine. :-D Now, one more question I can't seem to get a clear answer too - when opening it up to replace the thermal paste, do you really need to take the metal casing off of the motherboard? I mean... once the fan is off, you can clearly see the cpu and gpu. So why the extra step? Is it an issue of getting the paste off more easily if the casing is off? You gotta put the casing back on anyway before you put the thermal paste so.... I'm just wondering if this is an extra step or not.

 

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